[Stone]

The client insisted we stay at a hotel near their compound. I'm on a twin bed. Perhaps the first time since college. hopefully the last. There is a TGI Fridays in the building. Can't Congress pass a law prohibiting the export of middle-America beyond our shores? (Yes, I know Fridays began on 1st Ave, but it's clearly mutated to a mid-western mall rat.)

Harajuku -- the punk district. hundreds of little boutiques lining small winding roads, selling the best in multi-colored sneakers, torn/grafitto t-shirts and other costumery of the hip-hop culture. There must be one hair-stylist for every two people in tokyo. Nary a bar to be found.

Shibuya -- much classier area. hundreds of little boutiques lining small winding roads selling beautiful contemporary furniture, pottery, art, clothes, etc. Nary a bar to be found. large western stores (Gap, J Crew, HMV, Burberrys, etc.) on the main streets.

Wilf -- there appears to be a very popular clothing trend among young women: short skirts, fishnet stockings and long boots with very high heels. Just thought you'd like to know.

Yesterday was a national holiday, celebrating all the people who turn 20 this year. It's the year of aduulthood -- kind of a nationwide bar mitzvah. oddly, they do not spend their first afternoon of majority getting pissed in bars. they do dress formal for the ceremony -- men in tuxedo, women in kimono.

The Meiji-Jing__ shrine. Lovely old shrine. One of the few bits of "old" Tokyo to be seen.

The Microsoft X-Box cafe. According to my 28-year old co-worker, it's the only one in the world. It's also "awesome."

In the areas I've been, there is very little street food. Not seeing the little noodle/soup shops that are all over Bangkok and which I expected to find everywhere. Many more little Italian places selling pizzas and pasta.

[Abbylovi]

Stone, on Jan 9 2006, 04:37 PM, said:

Nary a bar to be found.

Did you look up? Lots and lots of bars are not located on the ground floor of buildings ala our Angel's Share and Pegu Club. If you look up you'll see lots of signs for bars. It's very cool, actually.

[Daisy]

Stone doesn't have to look up. He's already there.

[Orik]

Stone, on Jan 9 2006, 05:37 PM, said:

In the areas I've been, there is very little street food. Not seeing the little noodle/soup shops that are all over Bangkok and which I expected to find everywhere. Many more little Italian places selling pizzas and pasta.

There's a lot of near-street food sold out of small storefronts and stalls, but generally people don't eat on the street. You may have noticed that even victims of the canned drink machines consume their beverages standing by the machine.

[omnivorette]

Daisy, on Jan 9 2006, 04:45 PM, said:

Stone doesn't have to look up. He's already there.

You've had a sighting?

[Daisy]

omnivorette, on Jan 9 2006, 04:54 PM, said:

Daisy, on Jan 9 2006, 04:45 PM, said:

Stone doesn't have to look up.  He's already there. 

You've had a sighting?

I can't say. It would be indiscreet.

[omnivorette]

Sounds like it was worthwhile.

[Daisy]

There you go again, calling me, of all people, a ho.

[omnivorette]

Oh, what was I thinking.

[Abbylovi]

Orik, on Jan 9 2006, 04:51 PM, said:

Stone, on Jan 9 2006, 05:37 PM, said:

In the areas I've been, there is very little street food.  Not seeing the little noodle/soup shops that are all over Bangkok and which I expected to find everywhere.  Many more little Italian places selling pizzas and pasta.

There's a lot of near-street food sold out of small storefronts and stalls, but generally people don't eat on the street. You may have noticed that even victims of the canned drink machines consume their beverages standing by the machine.

Yes. In Japan, it's rude to eat and walk.

[Wilfrid1]

Where isn't it?







{Although I confess I sometimes do it myself.}

[akiko]

Yes, but you get forgiven for nearly everything if you are a foreigner. Eat and walk in Tokyo as a Japanese person and get scowls from everyone and possibly an old japanese woman will come up to you and tell you how you have no manners. Eat and walk as a gaijin and they'll just shrug. Your ways are not theirs and they accept that.

Imagine a starving me sitting on the steps at landmark plaza in Yokohama eating some pastry that I've just bought... I swear, I didn't just get disapproving looks, I got Hostile looks. Sometimes it does not help you to look Japanese but be American.

Stone, that ramen place -Jangara something or other (Orik, didn't you go? What's it called?) is right by shibuya station. Beard Papas cream puffs is also right there. I haven't been in forever but in Harajuku if you walk to the end of Omotesando (pass oriental bazaar, pass the dior building) turn right at the big crossing and immediately into the street/alley that goes diagonally back on yourself, keep walking down it even when you think there's no way there's any bar/restaurant down this little street. This will take you to Las Chicas. A very popular "international" cafe/bar/restaurant. A lot of both Japanese and foreigners hang out here. They served decent tapas and drinks ... eight years ago and my friends still talk about being there every once in a while so I assume its still pretty good. Lots of pretty twenty/thirty something arty types.

Pierre Herme is up from that main crossing between Harajuku and Shibuya too.

I'm assuming you're staying near Shibuya and Harajuku?

[Stone]

Sushi Sei, Shibuya. I was mistaken. The area I thought was classy was not Shibuya. At least not Shibuya central. Shibuya is Times Square to the nth degree. Crazy sensory overload. The area I was in was Aoyama. Last night,we went to Sushi Sei in Shibuya. A Japanese co-worker said that this is owned by the people who used to own Sushi Sei in NY, but sold the NY outlet to "Chinese." Apparently, the NY Sushi Sei went downhill. This was excellent. And, yes, sushi can get better. According the co-worker, who lived in NY for 12 years (the best NY restaurant, according to the Japanese I work with, is Sushi Gari), Americans just don't get the best fish. He claimed that the best tuna, for example, is caught off the coast of Boston, but it all goes straight to Tokyo. The fish at Sushi Sei was incredible. Especially the toro. In the US, the toro I had was just real soft maguro. This was a different entity, heavily marbled, like a Lobel's shell steak. The flavor was inteense. Everything, from the unagi to the yellowtail, was melt-in-your mouth fresh and delicious. Even the uni tasted good. And it was pretty reasonable. Americans are likely to be disappointed, though, because they don't do rolls. No cream cheese chilli concoctions.

Tonight we found ourselves at the Tokyo branch of Il Mulino. We were able to walk in at 8 p.m. -- the place was never full. The food was excellent, if a little heavy. Terrific service. The only drawback was the table of 12 obnoxious young finance types who were loud and garish.

[Stone]

akiko, on Jan 10 2006, 05:53 AM, said:

I'm assuming you're staying near Shibuya and Harajuku?

Actully, I'm staying in Shinagawa, which reminds me of White Plains.

[Daisy]

Stone, on Jan 11 2006, 08:43 AM, said:

akiko, on Jan 10 2006, 05:53 AM, said:

I'm assuming you're staying near Shibuya and Harajuku?

Actully, I'm staying in Shinagawa, which reminds me of White Plains.