[CenoErgoSum]

My wife and I are heading to Venice, Florence and Rome for three nights each in November and wanted to check in to get some current restaurant advice.

I have scoured the topics elsewhere on this site, as well as gotten advice from countless friends, but wanted to post here as one last sounding board.

We like good food. Food that is fresh, local and unavailable elsewhere. We are not big on critic's ratings, decor and abhore velvet rope "scenes." What we are looking for are excellent restaurants that typify their city/region and/or are such unique experiences, that they are not to be missed.

Last year (prior to a London visit) this group talked me into cancelling my reservation at Rasoi Vineet Bhatia in favor of dinner at New Tayabs - and couldn't have been more right!

Here are some recomendations I have received (both here and elsewhere):

Venice
Alle Testiere
da Fiore (some confusion here - the casual trattoria, or the place with the cooking school?)

Florence
Enotecca Pinchiori (I already booked this one - a belated anniversary present - not exactly what I described above, but twist my arm)
Pentola d'oro

Rome
Agata e Romeo
Al Ceppo
Ambasciata D'Abruzzo
Checcino dal 1887 (I worry, is this just, "St. John in Rome"?)
Romolo
Santopadre

Any thoughts?

[pete ganz]

I am going to Checchino dal 1887 and Al Ceppo next week. I will try and report back with updated info on them when I get home.

Edit: Just reread your post. You may also want to research Il Bacaro, Matricianella, and Armando al Pantheon in Rome.

[pete ganz]

CenoErgoSum, on Oct 13 2005, 09:19 AM, said:

Rome
Agata e Romeo
Al Ceppo
Ambasciata D'Abruzzo
Checcino dal 1887 (I worry, is this just, "St. John in Rome"?)
Romolo
Santopadre

Any thoughts?

As much as I like offal, Checchino did not do it for me. The service was great, the wine was good, but the food was very mediocre. The dishes did not really highlight the innards, and most dishes were very bland. Maybe we ordered wrong, but I got the Degustation menu and my wife got the buon recordo menu. They did give us a cute dish with a pig and cow on it...that was very nice, although I'm not sure why they did that (because I ordered the largest tasting menu?). The torta di ricotta for dessert was great. Al Ceppo, on the other hand, I would definitely recommend. Very good antipasti and grilled veal chop with delicious roasted potatoes on the side. I also got the cheese plate for dessert and received a bunch of interesting cheeses that I have not had before. The owner was very sweet and the fact that I made my reservation through e-mail seemed to tickle her.
I also have to highly recommend Armando al Pantheon. This is a fantastic, no-frills little place right near the Pantheon. I think I found the rec on Chowhound. It was about 75% Italians/25% tourists...many people were turned away who had not reserved a table. Very good renditions of some classics like spaghetti carbonara, ravioli di tartufo, and abbachio. They also had a terrific cake for dessert, torta antica roma, which was made with ricotta and berries....delicious. I always feel that I don't do these place justice with my descriptions...let me know if you want me to try and expand on anything. Have fun!

Edit: Here is Armando al Pantheon's web site.

[tighe]

If you're interested in a casual meal in Florence, I highly recommend Hosteria Ganino. It's been a while since I've been there, but more recent accounts have confirmed my opinion of it. It's a great place to try bistecca fiorentina without breaking the bank, the steaks are huge.

[Lost Virtue]

We had a very nice meal at Al Covo. They have a fine wine list and very good food.

Our best meal was Fiascheterria Toscana. Order the Chianina beef steak. You can get Dal Forno for a reasonable price.

[Kikujiro]

Lost Virtue, on Oct 31 2005, 02:04 AM, said:

Our best meal was Fiascheterria Toscana. Order the Chianina beef steak.

... or you could eat fish

[Lost Virtue]

Kikujiro, on Oct 30 2005, 10:57 PM, said:

Lost Virtue, on Oct 31 2005, 02:04 AM, said:

Our best meal was Fiascheterria Toscana. Order the Chianina beef steak.

... or you could eat fish

Yeah, sure. You can eat fish every other meal in Venice, and you can get a fritto misto appetizer if you really must. But if you have the chance to eat great beef, regardless of location, why pass it up.

[Kikujiro]

If that's your priority. After all, I think Al Covo's gone downhill, so horses for course I suppose.

[Rail Paul]

culinario toscano osvaldo in Florence

Dee and I had dinner at this very small place two weeks ago. It's about thirty feet off the Via de Banci, on the Via Bettacordi (near Santa Croce). Maybe 30 seats, total. I believe it's very new, perhaps open a few months, at most.

Stewed roe-buck with pine nuts and juniper, extremely fragrant and meaty. Thick piece of salt and herb crusted beef filet with black olives, medium rare as requested.

Chestnut lentil puree, which was excellent. The chestnuts had been reduced to a thick paste, and combined with the lentils coooked in a chicken broth. Pieces of toasted breads were added to this very interesting presentation. Two large ravioli stuffed with spinach, ricotta cheese, and truffle oil. Exceptionally light pasta, contents bursting with flavor.

Wine was a '99 Brunello from Capanna (E 55), total bill was about E 120.

Not a destination by any means, but a pleasant, enjoyable place to sample Tuscan food.

[Rail Paul]

Florence: Cantinetta Antinori


The Antinori wine company occupies a palatial town house in Florence, which features a wine bar serving lunch and dinner.

We shared a fettucine with rabbit ragu (thick reduction of rabbit, onions, wine) which was great. Damp night, and this was excellent. We also had a small cold cut platter with several kinds of proscuitto, head cheese, marinated artichokes.

Dee had a thick veal chop, which was OK, I had a beef stew with peppoli reduction served over polenta. The wine was a Brunello (Plan delle Urgne, 2000) for E 55

Piazza Antinori 3, near Via de Tornabuoni