[akiko]

Okinawa is a chain of islands of the southern tip of mainland Japan, closer to Taiwan than it is to Japan (probably in origins as well as location).

The history is such that they were called the Ryukyu Islands and until recent past were independent, paying tribute to both China and Japan. They had their own language (which you'll still find remnants of in the language) and monarchy until Japan seized them for their own. The islands are now very Japanese and the original language has been all but stamped out. A few of my great Aunts had the ability to speak it but even from them, I rarely hear it now. And they are the last of that generation - my oldest Aunt happens to be a very healthy 107 years old.

The half Chinese/half Japaneseness carries over to their traditional foods. Okinawa soba which is somewhere between an Udon noodle and ramen, lots of Pork in their dishes, and a love for bittermelon. Bittermelon is called Goya and you'll find hundreds of variations on goya stirfry and salads. They also make a fried "donut hole" called Andagi which when done well is delicious. A crisp brown crust opening up to yellow cakey interior.

Here are some pics from Machigua - Naha's market.



The local firewater is somethihng called Awamori. Its made from rice like sake but much rougher, stronger flavor, and more potent. This in particular is Habushu - habu is the name for Okinawa's indigenous snakes, which they often use in a type of Awamori. Sort of, Okinawa's answer to Tequila.



Fresh lobster which they will be more than happy to cook for you on the second floor of the market.





Fresh fish too.

[akiko]

This is Umibudo - or Ocean Grapes. Its a type of seaweed that only grows around the islands of Okinawa. Really lovely, they pop in your mouth like roe and offer a tiny burst of seaweed flavoured juice into your mouth



And Okinawa's specialty - pigs. Heads completely deboned and offerred up to you.



Pigs heads, dried, smoked or flavoured, and packaged for your consumption.



Cool Pig



Okinawan Pickles, including bittermelon pickle (the long green bumpy slices in the center)




beautiful





This is one of 2 shops in the market dedicated to soup base. This is dried bonito which is shaved into katsuobushi for broth making.



And a view of the front of the soup base store. I had a lot of fun shopping here.

[Lyle]

Akiko, thanks for the post.

Did you see many Americans in the shops?

I ask because I was born there and hear tales of my parents perusing the stalls gawking at the "weird" offerings.

I want deboned pig's head.

[GavinJones]

The health benefits of eating deboned pigs' heads

[clb]

Those sea grapes look so beautiful. Thank you for posting these reports, Akiko.

clb

[akiko]

Quote

Did you see many Americans in the shops?

I ask because I was born there and hear tales of my parents perusing the stalls gawking at the "weird" offerings.

Lyle we did see Americans but with such a big military presence I expected to see more. And you'd think the Okinawans would speak better English as a result of the longstanding American army base, but there is significantly less English being spoken in Okinawa than in Tokyo. Evidenced by someone in our party going into the Tourism desk... and coming back out complaining that the person didn't speak any English.

[Lyle]

Thanks. I remember conversations alluding to the segregated nature of the island. Segregated much more so than, say, servicepeople segregating themselves in Korea.

[akiko]

This is Okinawa Soba. Delicious noodles with great texture and slices of marinaded pork belly



Another version of this would be Soki Soba (sokibuni in Okinawan) which is the same noodles with pork ribs.



And some of those deep fried donuts - Andagi frying away. These were pretty good, the quality differs from place to place. You have to go very early but there is a shop in Machigua that is famous for them. These particular ones were from Ryukyumura.

[akiko]

I forgot to mention, the broth in that soup was no slouch either. The condiment of choice for noodle soups like these in Okinawa is a red chili vinegar. Was very nice. In fact, I could really go for a bowl of this right now.

[akiko]

And in case anyone should find themselves in Okinawa in the near future, there is a great Izakaya called Daikokuya close to the Okinawa Convention Center. I'd post pictures but all you'd see is my family sitting around piles of empty dishes, that stuff disappeared so quickly!

They do excellent yakitori including chicken grilled and a light wasabi paste or light ume paste loaded on top as sauce. Lovely tsukune (chicken meatballs on a stick).

Wonderful karaage AND nankotsu (deep fried chicken cartilage, I know it doesn't sound good but it is) as well as good rolls. In particular they did an ebi fry roll with spicy mayo and tobiko (shrimp breaded in panko maki).

Lovely normal Rice balls as well as grilled ones with miso dip.

And small dishes of traditional Okinawan dishes like - goya champuru, takana stir fry, rafute (braised pork belly). And decent awamori and sake. Izakaya's are a kind of Japanese tapas bars where the food is meant to be eaten with lots of drink!