[akiko]

We stayed in the Tawaraya which I'll get to later. First a trip to Nishiki Market which is just a short walk from Tawaraya, in the heart of Kyoto.

Nishiki market has long been referred to as Kyoto's Pantry. Most of the city's kaiseki restaurants uses it to stock their kitchens. I really didn't have enough time in Kyoto to do the market (or the temples) justice. Next time I'm hoping to spend more time here.




I could only wish this market was in reachable distance for me to get supplies to cook meals from. This is one of the many shops that specialized in pickles.




More pickles



And yet more pickles.

[akiko]

And this is when I didn't know quite what to do with myself. My emotions upon finding this row of stores was seriously complex. This is only one of several shops dedicated to soup base. What you are seeing is freshly shaved bonito, the machine to the side is a shaver that cuts wisp paper thin fragrant beautiful large flakes of bonito for dashi. The store also had baskets of dried fish, different seaweeds, beautiful dried mushrooms, anything and everything that would be the basis of different kinds of Japanese stock making could be found here in exceptional quality. It was my first experience with such a store (I wasn't as interested in these kinds of things when I last lived in Japan) and I was both elated by finding it and extremely upset that I wouldn't be able to access this kind of excellence in soup base materials on a regular basis. Who would have thought that dashi would could be so exciting?



Dried Fish



EEL!!



Fry Shop



Another Fry Shop



Shop with Gorgeous Japanese Spice Mixes

[Lippy]

Wonderful pix, Akiko.

[akiko]

The Tawaraya

Kyoto has two Ryokans that are reknown for their food, hospitality, and design. They are the Tawaraya and Hiragiya and interestingly, they are located across the street from one another. We chose the Tawaraya and I'll hope to stay at the Hiragiya another time.

This is one of those places where you could ask for anything and they would do their utmost to make it happen for you. The Tawaraya has been handed down from generation to generation and they are passionate about the inn and your comfort while you stay there.

Upon our arrival a tiny little old man rushed out of the entrance to welcome us from the taxi and insisted on taking the bags from the driver. He magicked away bags that probably weighed more than he does and miraculously they were all in our room before we got there.

Peaceful and beautiful is how I'd describe the inn. The woman who was our "butler" was wonderfully efficient and incredibly formal. I wanted her to relax a little, or reach over and mess the bow on her kimono just a little but Chris reminded me that this is what a stay in a place like this is all about. Someone who jumps to service and speaks to you only in the most honorific Japanese.



The seasonal flower arrangement that greets you as you walk into the Tawaraya.



View of one of the gardens from our room.



One of Kyoto's meibutsu - Warabi Mochi that is made in the inn is given to you for refreshment as you settle into your room. This was the best Warabi Mochi I've ever had, the flavour was perfect, the mouthfeel soft and glutinous, and it was deliciously cold.

[akiko]

Dinner is again served to you in your room with drinks of your choice. All by the same kimono clad keigo (formal Japanese) speaking woman who I mentioned before.



Menu for the evening handwritten in beautiful Japanese script.



Octopus - Takosu



Clear fishball soup. This was absolutely delicious and refreshing.



Tai sashimi to be dipped in ponzu with daikon oroshi and green onions



Fish mousse and edamame clear soup

[akiko]

Masu Salmon Shioyaki (salt grilled) and Dengaku tofu



Baby ayu with nanohana



Simmered Tofu, Celery, and Takenoko



Prawns with asparagas garnished with yuzu and daikon



The end of meal rice and pickles



And Orange Kanten to finish.

[akiko]

And breakfast



Japanese breakfast of miso soup with clams, grilled salmon, spinach with bonito shavings, pickles, tsukudani (little dried fish to eat with your rice, but the piece de resistance was this



I so want one of these boxes. It's a Yudofu box. Pieces of tofu, Yuba, shitakes, and japanese greens were simmering away in this box that held coal (under the copper lid) and the tea pot is also fitted into the box and held dashi based sauce to pour over your goodies. There was also freshly grated daikon, slivered nori, green onions, and dried shrimp to add to the dish as you liked.

[Abbylovi]

Wow. Thank you.

What else did you do in Kyoto? If a person were to go to Japan is Kyoto a must-visit?

[omnivorette]

The baby ayu - was that served on a slab of stone?

I am loving this, Akiko. Thank you.

[robyn]

This is so lovely. Alas - my husband's back is so bad I think we will have to skip a traditional Ryokan (I'd need a crane to get him off the floor - assuming he could get down there - and the thought of him eating seated on the floor is laughable) - if we don't have to skip the trip altogether (there's a possibility of surgery). In the meantime - I am enjoying your travelogue a lot and taking tons of notes. Robyn

[robyn]

Abbylovi, on Apr 18 2005, 05:44 PM, said:

Wow. Thank you.

What else did you do in Kyoto? If a person were to go to Japan is Kyoto a must-visit?

My husband and I have planned our first trip to Japan for this fall. I've been told that if you only have time to see one place in Japan - Kyoto is the place you must see (it's an historic city which - unlike Tokyo - hasn't been destroyed multiple times by earthquakes/war). It's close to Osaka - which is supposed to be the "foodie" city in Japan. So we decided to stay in Osaka for 6 days - and take day trips to Kyoto (rather than spending 3 days in 1 - and 3 in the other - I hate packing/unpacking). If my husband could stay in a traditional Ryokan (he can't) - I probably would have planned the trip a little differently. Robyn

[beachfan]

What memories this is bringing back. We were there 8 years ago, at almost this time.

Is it Cherry Blossom time? We were blown away, and every Japanese native we meet said "how fortuante you came at this time, it's the best time".

Memories rushing back at me:

1) The philosopher's walk, littered with cherry blossoms falling from the tree
2) A soba noodle place with a line outside. I joined the line without even knowing what it was, I figured any food place with a line is a place I want to go to.

And what a fabulous place it was. Communal tables-- at the table I sat at, the interchange was as follows: Tablemate "Hellow, do you speak Japanese". Me "so sorry, no". Tablemeate "Ahh, I thought not. You have the menu upside down".
Very friendly, super delicious.

3) Several kaiseki meals, including one all tofu
4) Finally "getting" what a rock garden was about
5) The department store sushi - price declining every 15 minutes from 6 pm till closing. A real game theory excercise - do I wait another 15 minutes for more discount and risk someone else buying it or do I jump on it now.
6) Fast food troika of Japan - Pickles (of every sort), Rice Crackers, and Mochi Ice Cream.

I could go on and on. Kyoto during cherry blossom time is a lifetime experience!!

Enjoy!!!!

[beachfan]

Abbylovi, on Apr 16 2005, 03:44 PM, said:

Wow. Thank you.

What else did you do in Kyoto? If a person were to go to Japan is Kyoto a must-visit?

Hai!

[akiko]

Quote

My husband and I have planned our first trip to Japan for this fall. I've been told that if you only have time to see one place in Japan - Kyoto is the place you must see (it's an historic city which - unlike Tokyo - hasn't been destroyed multiple times by earthquakes/war). It's close to Osaka - which is supposed to be the "foodie" city in Japan. So we decided to stay in Osaka for 6 days - and take day trips to Kyoto (rather than spending 3 days in 1 - and 3 in the other - I hate packing/unpacking). If my husband could stay in a traditional Ryokan (he can't) - I probably would have planned the trip a little differently. Robyn

Robyn, Osaka is the foodie city of Japan in the way that Chicago wins a lot of the "best meals" popular vote in America. There's a lot of good "basic" meals like Okonomiyaki, Takoyaki, noodles in the city but I definitely would not rank it with Kyoto or Tokyo for more refined food or for variety.

Six days in Osaka is a long time... But I could be wrong. I never stay long in Osaka because I've never found much of a reason to stay long there.

Abby, Kyoto is so much more interesting than I remembered it. When I go again, I'll stay for longer. I kept our time there short because I've seen all the temples and wanted to do the more "non tourist" type things this time but I really missed seeing the Golden Pavillion again and you can never see too many Zen Rock gardens. That plus the fact that we didn't make it to the Miho museum (in the mountains of Kyoto, its a trek to get out there and the stupid bus stops running at 2:00 which no one told us about) does make it a must see and stay for at least 3 days type of city.

[akiko]

Quote

The baby ayu - was that served on a slab of stone?

a stone plate!