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Our first city on the trip was Tokyo. And within the first hour of being there I wondered what possessed me to move away from the city in the first place. I was reminded in so many ways how much Tokyo is a connoiseur's city. You name your passion and you will be able to find it at its zenith here but in no other category will you find it to the extent as in the city's attitude and love of food.
The Japanese have a name for people who live and breathe for a single thing - "otaku". The connotation is for someone who is crazy about something, would do it no matter what the hurdles, knows all about the subject in finite detail and even should the subject matter be taboo - you'd find the person crouching in the dark illicitly conducting the activity. Ortolan eating is a perfect example of behaviour that would describe an otaku.
Shima in particular is a beef otaku's paradise.
Chef Oshima has worked in London at the Connaught, went on to France and Germany to round out his cooking and then returned to Japan some 12 years ago to open Shima. Shima is a beef restaurant in Tokyo that puts all the beef I've ever had to shame. The restaurant is tiny, holding 20 people maximum. A few small tables in the back and a long counter behind which the kitchen staff prepare every dish ordered from scratch.
Tokyo backstreets are impossible to navigate and Chris and I got lost (wasn't due to our lack of knowledge of Tokyo streets, even our cab driver couldn't figure it out). So we stood in front of a landmark building in the area and called the restaurant to get better directions. The maitre d told us to stay where we were and she sent one of the kitchen staff to come escort us himself.
Once inside the restaurant we were welcomed by the four chefs behind the counter and the woman who is the waitstaff for the floor. There were only 6 other guests being entertained, the workers for the restaurant outnumbered the guests. While you usually get phenomenal service in Japan this was unbelieveable.
Discussion of the wine list (wine in Japan gets marked up way more than in any other restaurant market in the world) ended up with a California Zinfandel and a starter of seasonal dressed vegetables (Japanese tradition of serving an "otsumami" savory snack with a drink in the beginning of a meal) nibbling dish set before us.
Oshima san interrupted us as we were discussing the menu and asked us what we liked and didn't like. We talked for a little while and he started to get a gleam in his eye as he said, "Well its not on the menu but I happen to have, " he opens the fridge and pulls out a container, "some white asparagus in from Hokkaido." Giant, pristine, spears of white asparagus were laid before our eyes. "If you'd like, I'll do something with these." We nodded our head vigorously.
As we're waiting, one of the other chefs pulls out freshly baked rolls from the oven and deposits two on each of our side plates. One a black sesame bread and the other a lovely white roll with sultanas. Very moreish.
Oshima san then asked us if we liked crab. Yes? And how about baby octopus? And would you like vinaigrette or hollandaise?
A little while later two plates of those giant white asparagus were placed in front of both of us. Crabmeat laid on top of the spear ends and a small pile of baby octopus at the other end. Chris was given a bowl of hollandaise to liberally pour over his plate as he liked and my vinaigrette had already been drizzled on. The separate tastes were lovely.
Oshima had suggested a soup for our next course but having just flown 13 hours, Chris and I didn't feel up to having too many dishes. We went straight for the beef but I was tempted. There is a French onion soup (amongst many other choices on the menu) which I bet is fantastic. Again he cooks that soup from scratch right in front of you.
I opted for filet mignon, I think Chris got the sirloin. Oshima san brings out the most beautiful flanks of marbled beef that you've ever seen. He then pulls out a scale and asks you how much you want to eat. He'll butcher your steak for you in front of your eyes and then spears the thing and cooks it rotisserie style in his giant grill before searing to finish in his pan. It was perfect beef. Mine tender and beefy flavourful, Chris's with more of a bite and again that incredible taste.
I wish I had pictures and I wish I had taken better notes. This restaurant serves such an incredible meal. There were many small dishes of things that came out to complement the beef but I can't remember all of them now. And we were so involved with speaking to the staff that I didn't remember to note everything I put in my mouth.
Oshima san talked to us about his time at the Connaught and even called a friend who still works in the kitchen while were there. He and his staff insisted that his restaurant is only one out of many in Tokyo that are serving the quality of beef that his is (I don't know if I believe him, this may just be Japanese modesty coming out). When he heard that we were too full and jetlagged for dessert, he insisted that we take a cheesecake with us that was leftover from their staff meal earlier in the day and actually walked us out of the restaurant bowing to us as we left.
The restaurant is a find, Oshima-san and his staff are serious about their food and after tasting the cheesecake, I envy the staff meals they must be getting. While we were there a call came in from a local who must frequent the restaurant. He asked for beef curry (not on the menu) and Oshima whipped it up (It smelled incredible) and had it waiting in a box for him to carry out when he arrived to pick it up.
An incredible first night meal in Tokyo.
