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Other creations spring from Ms. Bernstein’s fertile imagination. One such dish is the “egg yolk carpaccio,” a pool of whipped egg yolks, olive oil and coarse salt that’s baked until it takes on a carpaccio-esque texture, then studded with tiny shrimp and topped with shoestring potatoes.
Servers provide bread for scooping up the yolk mixture, and the overall experience was one of a deliciously unceremonious breakfast nudging up against a more refined dinner. It was a heady confluence, made headier still by the restaurant’s bounty of Spanish wines, scores of them, seizing the foreground from France and Italy, which too often dominate it
Servers provide bread for scooping up the yolk mixture, and the overall experience was one of a deliciously unceremonious breakfast nudging up against a more refined dinner. It was a heady confluence, made headier still by the restaurant’s bounty of Spanish wines, scores of them, seizing the foreground from France and Italy, which too often dominate it
Choices
He also enjoyed his meals at Pacific Time:
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Reading Pacific Time’s menu — or, for that matter, merely focusing on its name — provokes some cognitive dissonance, in that the restaurant looks to countries on the big ocean that Miami is nowhere near.
It takes in Thailand, Japan, China and India, and thus assembles a larder including house-made hoisin sauce (for duck confit), tamarind (for the salmon yaki), red curry and coconut water (for the local black grouper cheeks) and sake and edamame (for the black cod).
To further the confusion, Pacific Time throws in some dishes — sheep’s milk ricotta gnudi, for example — with Mediterranean bearings.
But who needs ethnic logic and clarity when there are outsize delights like Pacific Time’s soft-shell crab, dressed in a fermented black bean vinaigrette? It was exceptional, and yet paled beside the restaurant’s signature hot-and-sour popcorn shrimp, with their gossamer casings around a succulent core.
It takes in Thailand, Japan, China and India, and thus assembles a larder including house-made hoisin sauce (for duck confit), tamarind (for the salmon yaki), red curry and coconut water (for the local black grouper cheeks) and sake and edamame (for the black cod).
To further the confusion, Pacific Time throws in some dishes — sheep’s milk ricotta gnudi, for example — with Mediterranean bearings.
But who needs ethnic logic and clarity when there are outsize delights like Pacific Time’s soft-shell crab, dressed in a fermented black bean vinaigrette? It was exceptional, and yet paled beside the restaurant’s signature hot-and-sour popcorn shrimp, with their gossamer casings around a succulent core.
