Mouthfuls: Cafe Adelaide/Swizzle Stick Bar - Mouthfuls

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Cafe Adelaide/Swizzle Stick Bar New Orleans

#1 User is offline   Evelyn 

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:54 AM

After working through my regular New Orleans lunch rotation, I decided to give Cafe Adelaide in the Loew's Hotel a try on a nasty, rainy pre-Christmas December day. The restaurant was packed. So, I went across the hall to their Swizzle Stick Bar, which serves the same lunch menu. The restaurant and bar are a part of the Brennan family empire. A note on the website captures the spirit of the woman, for whom the restaurant is named-"beloved Aunt Adelaide, who personified the avant-garde cocktail culture of the late 1950s and 1960s, and represents the joie de vivre of all that is New Orleans. Everything about Café Adelaide and The Swizzle Stick Bar is centered around her charming pursuit of the good life—from high-falutin’ to low-down…with great New Orleans food".

A zinc topped, moss green distressed wood bar dominates the squared off, u-shaped Swizzle Stick Bar. Flanked on both sides by 'bookcases' used for wine storage and library ladders for accessing the selections which reach to the high ceilings. At the top of the "u", a mirror with the special drink of the day written in lipstick, reflects the lit crystal sailing ship suspended from the ceiling just in front of it. A center island, breaking up the space in the center, holds a real block of ice with antique red ice tongs gripping it.

I had a good view of the dining room, where a jovial mood permeated the crowd. At first, I thought it was just 'holiday spirit'. But, come to find out that they offer 25 cent martinis (maximum of three) with lunch in the dining room. I suspect a goodly number of the dinners were taking advantage of the special. I decided these folks were enablers, so, I went for the cocktail list and started with their "Tequila Mockingbird II"-Herradura reposada tequila, limoncello, freshly squeezed lemon juice and Angostura bitters. A nice way to shake off the chill of the damp day.

The bartender doubled as my server. She seemed more intent on doing her bar prep than on dealing with her first customer (me). And, she definitely made it clear to the others who followed me, that she would get to us when she was ready, and not before. The average wait for folks who weren't 'regulars' to get served averaged over 5 minutes (and, it wasn't because she was swamped with orders from the dining room). Thankfully, I had a cocktail, a book, the tv across the bar was on ESPN and I had two hours to kill.

First up, Shrimp and Tasso "Corndogs", 5 pepper jelly, pickled okra, chickory greens and Crystal Hot Sauce Butter-Atop the chickory greens rested two large Gulf shrimp enrobed in a cornmeal crust, impaled lengthwise on skewers and drizzled with the Crystal Hot Sauce Butter. Accompanied by pool of the almost liquid pepper jelly and a halved spear of crunchy pickled okra. Excellent.

Next, Camellia Red bean Crusted Oysters, Charred Green Onion Rouille and Tasso Beurre Rouge-A swath of the bright green charred onion roiulle topped with a thick slab of French bread made a perfect pedestal for 6 fat, juicy fried Gulf oysters with a crust incorporating ground local Camellia red beans (a kidney bean) and coated with a liberal dollop of the smoky, spicy tasso beurre rouge. Very good.

After having to practically set of a flare to get a fork for my oysters, I was ready to meet the challenge and try to get a second cocktail. I found out later, that the bartender had been a past 'NOLA Bartender of the Year'. It had to be based only on her skills as a bartender. Certainly not her service skills or personality. But, I digress. I opted for a "Brandy, You're a Fine Girl"-Korbel brandy, cherry brandy, a pinch of sugar, lemon, maraschino liquer and garnished with a brandied cherry (pretty tasty).

My main course was Harris Ranch Hanger Steak, Tabasco Salted Pommes Frittes, Roquefort Aioli and Smoky Creme Fraiche Compound Butter-Cooked as requested, tender and flavorful. Complimented nicely by the appropriately smoky creme fraiche butter. The fries were a tad limp, but, had good flavor.

I had planned to have dessert. But, Ms. Personality dropped my check without even considering that I might care to look at a dessert menu, much less actually order. I would definitely go back for another meal, as there were some other interesting dishes on the menu. The chef, Chris Lusk, is said to change the menu frequently. And, even though I enjoyed the bar atmosphere, I did not enjoy having to work so hard for things that a good server would provide, and would opt for a table in the dining room, all things being equal.
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#2 User is offline   Nathan 

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 01:10 AM

I had most of those choices and enjoyed them as well...but I still think the bar is a better draw than the food.
Blatantly Obvious Disclaimer:

My opinions are obviously my personal opinions. Not yours. Not universal.

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