Mouthfuls: Under Cover with a NY Michelin Inspector - Mouthfuls

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Under Cover with a NY Michelin Inspector The New Yorker gets the scoop

#1 User is offline   Chad Ward 

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:34 PM

Interesting article in the New Yorker -- Lunch with M. -- detailing the day to day life of a Michelin inspector. I have to agree with Bruni's assessment, though, "The other thing that has always made me wonder about Michelin rankings is that they claim a lot of science to them, but is there a lot of soul to them? When Michelin describes its own system, I think, Where is the allowance for just a visceral, emotional response to a restaurant?" All in all a good overview of the Michelin system, the reviewer's training and background and how the thing is put together. It's a definite PR coup for the managing director who arranged it.
Chad Ward
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#2 User is offline   bloviatrix 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 02:34 AM

As I read the article I kept thinking "where's the romance?" It all felt so technical. I also didn't like the comment from M. about not usually eating foie gras because she wants to avoid the calories. It makes me wonder what else on a menu she doesn't like to eat.
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#3 User is offline   Rail Paul 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 03:05 AM

QUOTE(bloviatrix @ Nov 19 2009, 09:34 PM) View Post
As I read the article I kept thinking "where's the romance?" It all felt so technical. I also didn't like the comment from M. about not usually eating foie gras because she wants to avoid the calories. It makes me wonder what else on a menu she doesn't like to eat.


Good point.

I was also intrigued with the amount of effort put into determining each element in a prepared meal, and whether it was cooked properly, constructed according to the ideal, etc. It was, as you say, technical, and not at all sensual.

Consolidating the results of multiple inspectors should reduce the danger of one person not assessing the foie gras, but I don't think five inspections gives much more statistical confidence than one person making two or three visits (the NY Times model).

My only complaint was that if they need to charge me $30 because they're robbing the duck to pay the boar they might as well give me a more substantial portion of flour, water, and bits of meat.

Orik, on the pasta price at Hearth in NYC
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#4 User is offline   hollywood 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 06:14 AM

In a way, I think I prefer one person's own idiosyncratic assessment of a place as opposed to that of a committee or one edited into nonsense.
That shit cray.
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#5 User is offline   Anthony Bonner 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 11:49 AM

just wanted to point out that M. appears to be the person who stripped sripraphai from a book that rewarded Rhong-Tiam a star. take from that what you will.
Why not mayo?
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#6 User is offline   Lex 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 12:38 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ Nov 20 2009, 06:49 AM) View Post
just wanted to point out that M. appears to be the person who stripped sripraphai from a book that rewarded Rhong-Tiam a star. take from that what you will.

Then M. should be easy to spot.


“I have a dream of a multiplicity of pastramis.”

"Perhaps there are two tea smoked ducks, and we ordered from the wrong part of the menu. Having everything in English is a bit confusing."- CH poster.
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#7 User is offline   Chad Ward 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 12:55 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ Nov 20 2009, 06:49 AM) View Post
just wanted to point out that M. appears to be the person who stripped sripraphai from a book that rewarded Rhong-Tiam a star. take from that what you will.

Why would it be specifically her? If I recall the article correctly there are five inspectors in NY, and the star ratings come at a year-end review meeting.

While the process does seem somewhat soulless, I was impressed with the background, training, and rigor required of the reviewers. At least you know you are getting a consistent process, even though it seems less applicable to restaurants outside of France.
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#8 User is offline   nuxvomica 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 01:07 PM

QUOTE(Chad Ward @ Nov 20 2009, 12:55 PM) View Post
QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ Nov 20 2009, 06:49 AM) View Post
just wanted to point out that M. appears to be the person who stripped sripraphai from a book that rewarded Rhong-Tiam a star. take from that what you will.

Why would it be specifically her? If I recall the article correctly there are five inspectors in NY, and the star ratings come at a year-end review meeting.



she's assigned to Queens, covering Thai restaurants:

QUOTE
Assigned specific areas of the city to cover, Maxime, who lives in Manhattan, spends weeks riding the subway out to the farthest reaches of Queens to make her way through a selection of Thai restaurants

“Eat me,’’ it says. “Eat me and die.’’ -- Jonathan Gold

Everything is always OK in the end. If it's not OK, then it's not the end.
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#9 User is offline   Anthony Bonner 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 02:10 PM

QUOTE(Lex @ Nov 20 2009, 07:38 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ Nov 20 2009, 06:49 AM) View Post
just wanted to point out that M. appears to be the person who stripped sripraphai from a book that rewarded Rhong-Tiam a star. take from that what you will.

Then M. should be easy to spot.



we're going Sunday, so I'll be checking to see if she is re-reviewing.
Why not mayo?
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#10 User is offline   Lex 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 03:24 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ Nov 20 2009, 09:10 AM) View Post
we're going Sunday, so I'll be checking to see if she is re-reviewing.

Get the sausage dish, A14. Highly recommended.

I posted about it here.
“I have a dream of a multiplicity of pastramis.”

"Perhaps there are two tea smoked ducks, and we ordered from the wrong part of the menu. Having everything in English is a bit confusing."- CH poster.
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#11 User is offline   Anthony Bonner 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 03:30 PM

QUOTE(Lex @ Nov 20 2009, 10:24 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ Nov 20 2009, 09:10 AM) View Post
we're going Sunday, so I'll be checking to see if she is re-reviewing.

Get the sausage dish, A14. Highly recommended.

I posted about it here.

oh Lex Lex Lex Lex Lex. You are not the first to discover the earth is round. (seriously its a great dish)

ETA: I do think I need to try o-7 though
Why not mayo?
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#12 User is offline   SethG 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 03:44 PM

The Michelin style seems suited to French cuisine in its classic sense, where dishes are either correct or incorrect. This sauce and only this sauce goes with that, etc... the article made it clear to me why Michelin seems such a poor fit for everywhere but France.
Why yes, I do have a rock climbing blog! Climb and Punishment
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#13 User is offline   Lippy 

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Posted 20 November 2009 - 04:25 PM

QUOTE(SethG @ Nov 20 2009, 10:44 AM) View Post
The Michelin style seems suited to French cuisine in its classic sense, where dishes are either correct or incorrect. This sauce and only this sauce goes with that, etc... the article made it clear to me why Michelin seems such a poor fit for everywhere but France.


And Japan, apparently.
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