[Evelyn]

Domenica, John Besh's latest foray into the New Orleans dining scene in the newly remodeled Roosevelt Hotel is not a restaurant you would expect to find in New Orleans. There's hardly a nod to New Orleans in the sleek, modern room. A huge room with high ceilings, cascading crystal chandeliers, dark woods, modern art, metal mesh curtains to break up the space. Not New Orleans. More like San Francisco or New York. He describes the cuisine as 'Italian peasant food'. One long wall sports a glass walled locker bearing the large selection of housemade salumi (which have been curing for a year or so) a Ferrari style slicer (Berkel's, I believe) and a counter for dining. A bit further down, a small space allocated for sipping cocktails.

The offerings on the wine list are partioned by regions of Italy. A varied selection of wines are available by the glass. A word about the glassware. It is not fitting with the room. Basically, large water glasses. The size of the glass makes the by the glass pours look exceptionally skimpy.

On to the seating. The seats along the wall are basically unattached padded benches. The 'back' is the wall with wood bars. I spent most of the evening trying to keep the bench from sliding around on the wood floors. I had to plant my feet to accomplish this. And, leaning back was not comfortable with the wooden runners on my spine. The second visit, we opted for a table not along the wall and had a much more comfortable experience.

The first visit was one month to the day they opened. It was a disappointing one. I had hoped Team Besh, with numerous other ventures under their belt would have had things a bit ahead of the curve. Instead, the service was uneven at best. Our waiter unsure of various components of dishes. A drink delivered that not only wasn't the one ordered, but, also was no longer on offer on the abbreviated cocktail list. Long waits for wine, the check and the return of the credit card slip. Having to flag someone down for silverware after dishes of pasta had been delivered. A pasta dish so salty as to be basically inedible. A salad with a dressing so acidic that you'd swear they forgot to add the other elements to the emulsion. Being told to please put our comments on the card included with our check--which we would have, had the card been provided. But, all that said, there were glimmers of what could be that definitely merited a return to give the restaurant another shot.

Our second visit, approximately two weeks later was a much improved experience. Some of the service issues lingered. As did the propensity towards a heavy hand with the salt (and I love salt), although to a lesser degree. The menu provides a diverse selection of antipasti and primi. All available as small or large plates. Excellent fried squash blossoms stuffed with goat cheese. A beautifully presented, tender Octopus Carpaccio accompanied by a dusting of fregula and fennel a fennel and orange salad dressed with citrus and olive oil. A meatball dish with soft polenta that is next up on the 'must try' list. Black Pepper Fettucine with Oysters, Saffron and Cream and another dish of Rigatoni with Crab, Bottarga and Mint were well executed. The Cavatelli with Fennel Sausage, Beans and Tuscan kale was a failure. The pasta itself horribly salty, the fennel sausage in short supply and lacking flavor. The crushed beans giving the dish an unpleasant floury aftertaste.

Another major draw though, is the house cured salumi and imported cheeses. Those alone are worth a visit to Domenica. Chef Alon Shaya began the curing process about a year ago, before the first nail was driven to begin the restaurant's construction. There's also, a lovely proscuitto imported from Langhirano, Italy. Part of the pleasant anticipation of ordering a salumi ahd formaggi plate is watching the salumi being sliced to order and bits from the wheel of 30 month old Parmigiano Reggiano di Montagna being readied. If I lived in New Orleans, i would definitely be stopping in frequently for a taste and some wine.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the restaurant has progressed with a third visit scheduled shortly. And, to try some of the dishes on offer. The pizze has tempted-especially the Pizza Enzo-anchovies, tomatoes, garlic and mortadella. Also, the desserts. The Polenta E Osei-rum soaked cake layered with chocolate mousse and apricot marmellata. And the Frittole di Fichi-fig and ricotta fritters with Moscato zabalone. Yep, definitely looking forward to the third time being the charm.