[Rail Paul]

Raymond Sokolov on the prospects for bbq in the capital of the old Confederacy. He finds a few worth the detour, and some which should be passed right on by...

About a mile off exit 69 of I-95, on US 1 is Hank's:

f Hank's Pit Cooked Barbecue, in view of the full-size Elvis replica, ... If you want barbecue at Hank's, your choice boils down to pork shoulder, sliced or chopped, both with a strong vinegar tang. We picked chopped and reveled in the austere, sour pigginess of the experience. Hank's is an import to the Commonwealth of Virginia, sure, but once you are inside you'll have no trouble imagining yourself at some country crossroads south of Raleigh.

4810 Jefferson Davis Hwy
Richmond, VA 23234-3155
(804) 275-8605

He was less enthused with Buz and Ned's, finding the ribs OK, but the brisket not worth a stop. I-95, exit 78, right, and it's right there

1119 N Blvd
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 355-6055

Buz and Ned's

He liked Millie's Diner, though. It's a few hundred feet off exit 74-B

n keeping the greasy spoon note ringing at the 44-seat, two-room joint, while inserting a menu as deft and knowing as you could ever really want. >>>> they were multi-tasking their way through the assembly of a very large pork chop stuffed with ripe plaintains, pancetta and sage, and garnished with stone-ground mascarpone grits and bitter, rangy broccolini.

I started this feast with Millie's idea of fried green tomatoes: a perfect version of the classic dish tricked out with roasted red pepper, baby arugula and toasted hazelnuts. Maybe I should have started with beef carpaccio accompanied by local beets, preserved lemon and fancy Parmesan, or the local poblano peppers stuffed with chorizo, corn and black beans, followed with a duck duo (breast and confit) in guava gastrique.

You want to remember to keep room for the peach cobbler or the Almond Joy gelato. And the truly great American-style coffee.

Millie's

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