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QUOTE
Pun choi, whose name translates to "basin food," is literally just that -- a large basin, traditionally made of wood, filled with up to 14 types of ingredients, assembled into a casserole. Each item is individually prepared in advance and then carefully layered in the basin, similar to the way a terrine is made with the ingredients arranged in tiers. Then, just before serving, the contents are reheated until warm for no more than 30 minutes over an open fire.
"You start off with a layer of braised turnips on the bottom," explains Ping-kwan Leung, a dedicated foodie who is also a comparative literature professor at Lingnan University in Hong Kong. "Then there are the usual suspects: mushrooms, bamboo shoots, bean curd, fish balls, fried pork skins, squid, pan-seared prawns, five-spice chicken, dried eel, braised pork in soy-sauce paste, and roasted duck -- the more expensive the ingredient, the higher up they're placed" in the cooking basin.
The amassed creation has a stew-like quality, with the juices from the meats binding together the other ingredients. Yet each individual element, slightly softened from the quick baking, retains the integrity of its distinct texture, ranging from the al dente fish balls, the chewy pork skin, to the crispy skin and tender meat of the roasted chicken.
"You start off with a layer of braised turnips on the bottom," explains Ping-kwan Leung, a dedicated foodie who is also a comparative literature professor at Lingnan University in Hong Kong. "Then there are the usual suspects: mushrooms, bamboo shoots, bean curd, fish balls, fried pork skins, squid, pan-seared prawns, five-spice chicken, dried eel, braised pork in soy-sauce paste, and roasted duck -- the more expensive the ingredient, the higher up they're placed" in the cooking basin.
The amassed creation has a stew-like quality, with the juices from the meats binding together the other ingredients. Yet each individual element, slightly softened from the quick baking, retains the integrity of its distinct texture, ranging from the al dente fish balls, the chewy pork skin, to the crispy skin and tender meat of the roasted chicken.
Pun Choi
QUOTE
Tai Wing Wah
Owner Hugo Leung Man-to (a.k.a. Toto) is famous around these parts as the "God of Cookery" for his walled-village cuisine and regular appearances on local TV. His restaurant, one of the largest and most-established in the region, opened in 1975. It was the first to serve pun choi as a signature item, and this helped introduce the dish to mainstream Hong Kong audiences. The restaurant has two branches: one in the New Territories and one in Kowloon.
Koon Wong Mansion, 2-6 Yuen Long On Ning Rd., Yuen Long ( 852-2476-9888); a 10-to-12- person serving costs HK$900 or HK$1,380 (depending on the types of ingredients included).
1/F Chevalier Commercial Centre, 8 Wang Hoi Rd., Kowloon Bay ( 852-2148-7773); HK$900 or HK$1,380 for a 10-to-12-person serving.
Tai Foon Hei Restaurant
The 33-year-old eatery is a magnet for lovers of authentic pun choi. Orders must be placed a few hours ahead: The restaurateurs believe pun choi should sit after cooking for a minimum of one hour before it is reheated a second time, so the flavors are enriched and absorbed evenly.
G/F, 76 Kau Yuk Rd., Yuen Long ( 852-2478-9395); HK$888 for large size (a 10-to-12- person serving); HK$600 for medium size (a four-to-six-person serving); deliveries available to nearby areas.
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Ping Shan Pun Choi
Using a secret family recipe passed down from father to son, the pun choi here is declared by many locals to be among the tastiest. It is still prepared using firewood, which is said to impart a unique flavor and allow better control over the cooking temperature.
G/F, 36 Tong Fong Village, Ping Shan, Yuen Long ( 852-617-8000); HK$850 for large size (a 12-person serving), HK$750 for medium size (a 10-person serving), HK$450 for small size (a six-person serving).
Owner Hugo Leung Man-to (a.k.a. Toto) is famous around these parts as the "God of Cookery" for his walled-village cuisine and regular appearances on local TV. His restaurant, one of the largest and most-established in the region, opened in 1975. It was the first to serve pun choi as a signature item, and this helped introduce the dish to mainstream Hong Kong audiences. The restaurant has two branches: one in the New Territories and one in Kowloon.
Koon Wong Mansion, 2-6 Yuen Long On Ning Rd., Yuen Long ( 852-2476-9888); a 10-to-12- person serving costs HK$900 or HK$1,380 (depending on the types of ingredients included).
1/F Chevalier Commercial Centre, 8 Wang Hoi Rd., Kowloon Bay ( 852-2148-7773); HK$900 or HK$1,380 for a 10-to-12-person serving.
Tai Foon Hei Restaurant
The 33-year-old eatery is a magnet for lovers of authentic pun choi. Orders must be placed a few hours ahead: The restaurateurs believe pun choi should sit after cooking for a minimum of one hour before it is reheated a second time, so the flavors are enriched and absorbed evenly.
G/F, 76 Kau Yuk Rd., Yuen Long ( 852-2478-9395); HK$888 for large size (a 10-to-12- person serving); HK$600 for medium size (a four-to-six-person serving); deliveries available to nearby areas.
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Ping Shan Pun Choi
Using a secret family recipe passed down from father to son, the pun choi here is declared by many locals to be among the tastiest. It is still prepared using firewood, which is said to impart a unique flavor and allow better control over the cooking temperature.
G/F, 36 Tong Fong Village, Ping Shan, Yuen Long ( 852-617-8000); HK$850 for large size (a 12-person serving), HK$750 for medium size (a 10-person serving), HK$450 for small size (a six-person serving).
