Mouthfuls: Colman Andrews' Catalan Cuisine - Mouthfuls

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Colman Andrews' Catalan Cuisine with an interesting Catalan wine

#1 User is offline   Rail Paul 

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:17 PM

Tom Ciocco has a mention of cooking from this cookbook, in the context of discussing a wine he especially likes. The wine is an Espelt Emporda` “Saulo`” 2006. Saulo` is a blend of 60% Garnacha (aka Grenache, and spelled “Garnatxa” in Catalan) and 40% Carignan (”Carinyena” in Catalan) that rests for just two short months in new French oak barrels. (Gary's Wine has it for $12)

(Ciocco used to be a buyer / writer for the Springfield NJ Wine Library, and has now struck out on his own.)

QUOTE
I served this little lovely with a Catalan truita, which strangely literally means “trout” but is also used to denote omelette or frittata, with a mess of veggies - carrot, potato, bell pepper, onion, tomato, peas, turnip, et al. and ham

The second course was a modified recipe of pork loin in a pomegranate sauce, and the absolutely classic Catalan veggie side of sauteed spinach with pine nuts and raisins…

…all of these recipes were dug out of Colman Andrew’s excellent book Catalan Cuisine which for all intents and purposes is the only 100% Catalan cookbook readily available in English…In any event, the wine was light enough to not overwhelm the omelette (though the truita de pages is one tough mess of eggs) but it also had more than enough of everything to perfectly compliment the pork. The post comestibus....

Espelt Emporda` “Saulo`” 2006

Enticing and youthful blackish garnet color. The nose is a pleasantly complex bundle of mocha, light soy sauce, blackberry, lilac and cooked sap. The palate is full of round, chewy, and clean flavors of plum preserves and quince membrillo, but with a wonderfully stiff if basic structure to balance it all out. This is a very versatile, and easy-going wine that still speaks Catalan fluently.



Tom Ciocco
My only complaint was that if they need to charge me $30 because they're robbing the duck to pay the boar they might as well give me a more substantial portion of flour, water, and bits of meat.

Orik, on the pasta price at Hearth in NYC
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#2 User is offline   pim 

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 09:03 PM

I love, love, love this book. The cuisine is not that familiar to me (eating it, yes, but not really cooking it) so I found the book just fabulous and educational.
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#3 User is online   Orik 

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Posted 18 August 2008 - 12:12 AM

It's a great book. Fascinating to read both the recipes (even if some of them just make no culinary sense), the legends/folklore, and other background provided. It was quite disappointing to learn that Barcelona was once really a city where 2am wasn't particularly late (certainly not the case now), but I guess other aspects have improved since the edition I have was published (1988 or 1992, I'm not sure).
I think that is the danger of keeping a blog: you exaggerate everything
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#4 User is online   Anthony Bonner 

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Posted 19 August 2008 - 01:37 PM

Bourdain last night did a big segment on Calcotada's, which this book has a great discussion of. I love the Romesco recipe he has in the book. Bit of a pain but totally worth it. One of my favorite regional cookbooks I think.
Why not mayo?
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#5 User is offline   rohandaft 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 11:19 AM

Yes - this really is a great book. There aren't many that are researched like ths any more. Hats off.
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#6 User is offline   Carolyn Tillie 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 11:35 AM

I was given the book as a birthday gift with a cazuella a year or two ago. I am ashamed that I haven't cooked out of it (and the cazuella has long-since been broken).

I'll have to re-look at it though!
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#7 User is offline   rohandaft 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 12:26 PM

QUOTE(Carolyn Tillie @ Sep 4 2008, 12:35 PM) View Post
I was given the book as a birthday gift with a cazuella a year or two ago. I am ashamed that I haven't cooked out of it (and the cazuella has long-since been broken).

I'll have to re-look at it though!


Cazuelas are great for all sorts, in particular baked rices!
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#8 User is offline   omnivorette 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 12:27 PM

I am looking forward to cooking out of this one in the next few months.
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid
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#9 User is online   Orik 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 02:53 PM

QUOTE(Carolyn Tillie @ Sep 4 2008, 07:35 AM) View Post
I was given the book as a birthday gift with a cazuella a year or two ago. I am ashamed that I haven't cooked out of it (and the cazuella has long-since been broken).

I'll have to re-look at it though!


Read the non-recipe parts too, very interesting. I think what makes it easy for catalan chefs to buy into the molecular gastronomy stuff is that many of the traditional recipes read like they were generated at random (salt cod, honey, capers, eggplant, squid ink, cat, stew together with chocolate... would not be out of place)
I think that is the danger of keeping a blog: you exaggerate everything
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#10 User is offline   helena 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:09 PM

QUOTE
many of the traditional recipes read like they were generated at random (salt cod, honey, capers, eggplant, squid ink, cat, stew together with chocolate


very true smile.gif

I used to cook from this book a lot when i was fascinated with weird combinations...
"Love your experiments (as you would an ugly child).
Joy is the engine of growth. Exploit the liberty in casting your work as beautiful experiments, iterations, attempts, trials, and errors. Take the long view and allow yourself the fun of failure every day." Bruce Mau
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#11 User is offline   Wilfrid1 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:49 PM

Personally I had problems warming to the fish + sweet ice cream combos I came across in two modern Catalan restaurants. Monkfish with prune and armagnac ice cream? Reminded me a bit of Tailor, which is no good thing.

But sweet and savory is indeed a Catalan tradition.
Elect-a-lujah

***Every Monday***At the Sign of the Pink Pig.

If the author could go around the place hitting random readers with a rubber hammer, the Pink Pig would still be worth a visit.
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#12 User is online   Orik 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:50 PM

and surf and turf
and cat

I think that is the danger of keeping a blog: you exaggerate everything
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#13 User is offline   Wilfrid1 

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:55 PM

surf. turf. chocolate.



Elect-a-lujah

***Every Monday***At the Sign of the Pink Pig.

If the author could go around the place hitting random readers with a rubber hammer, the Pink Pig would still be worth a visit.
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