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For centuries, the fort proved impregnable. Only in recent months have the gates swung open to a new era of invaders: tourists.
In September, two brothers who are descendants of the murderous nobleman began accepting guests in five restored rooms of the Bhainsrorgarh Fort. The 25-acre property is the latest example of how India's noble families are turning towering antiquities into boutique hotels.
Rajasthan's Department of Tourism estimates that 130 forts and palaces have been converted into so-called heritage hotels during the past decade or so. Many are owned by families, like the Singhs, who lost their powers to govern and tax their fiefs after India's independence in 1947 but held onto much of their property and the historical landmarks on them. In some cases, the crumbling castles reflect crumbling family fortunes -- and the hospitality business is a way to rejuvenate both.
The Indian government has nudged along the trend. In the early 1990s, it lifted a ban on India's erstwhile nobles transforming historic homes into commercial properties, according to Daleep Singh Rathore, assistant director in Rajasthan's Department of Tourism.
More recently, the government has extended loans to families hoping to open hotels in palaces and forts. The cash infusions have saved scores of forts and palaces that were falling apart, while helping to meet surging demand for high-end hotels among tourists and business travelers. While Mr. Rathore doesn't have details on how many have done so, he says there has been a substantial increase in recent years.
Indeed, Rajasthan's heritage properties are drawing more tourists who want to break from the well-trodden Taj Mahal path. In 2006, Rajasthan ranked fourth among India's states and municipalities in total foreign visitors, nearly doubling to 1.2 million from 2003.
Big hotel groups have long seen the potential for business. One of the first was Neemrana Hotels, founded by a Frenchman, Francis Wacziarg. In 1986, Neemrana Hotels converted a 15th-century fort between New Delhi and Jaipur and opened it as a hotel, called the Neemrama Fort-Palace. Neemrana Hotels has since restored several other tottering properties, including one in the nearby village of Kesroli, called the Hill Fort Kesroli.
The Tata Group's Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces operates three palaces in Rajasthan, including the Taj Lake Palace, aptly named because it's on an island in the middle of Udaipur's Lake Pichola. India's wealthy Poddar family, which has been involved in several heritage projects, took more than a decade to restore the Devi Garh Palace outside of Udaipur.
In September, two brothers who are descendants of the murderous nobleman began accepting guests in five restored rooms of the Bhainsrorgarh Fort. The 25-acre property is the latest example of how India's noble families are turning towering antiquities into boutique hotels.
Rajasthan's Department of Tourism estimates that 130 forts and palaces have been converted into so-called heritage hotels during the past decade or so. Many are owned by families, like the Singhs, who lost their powers to govern and tax their fiefs after India's independence in 1947 but held onto much of their property and the historical landmarks on them. In some cases, the crumbling castles reflect crumbling family fortunes -- and the hospitality business is a way to rejuvenate both.
The Indian government has nudged along the trend. In the early 1990s, it lifted a ban on India's erstwhile nobles transforming historic homes into commercial properties, according to Daleep Singh Rathore, assistant director in Rajasthan's Department of Tourism.
More recently, the government has extended loans to families hoping to open hotels in palaces and forts. The cash infusions have saved scores of forts and palaces that were falling apart, while helping to meet surging demand for high-end hotels among tourists and business travelers. While Mr. Rathore doesn't have details on how many have done so, he says there has been a substantial increase in recent years.
Indeed, Rajasthan's heritage properties are drawing more tourists who want to break from the well-trodden Taj Mahal path. In 2006, Rajasthan ranked fourth among India's states and municipalities in total foreign visitors, nearly doubling to 1.2 million from 2003.
Big hotel groups have long seen the potential for business. One of the first was Neemrana Hotels, founded by a Frenchman, Francis Wacziarg. In 1986, Neemrana Hotels converted a 15th-century fort between New Delhi and Jaipur and opened it as a hotel, called the Neemrama Fort-Palace. Neemrana Hotels has since restored several other tottering properties, including one in the nearby village of Kesroli, called the Hill Fort Kesroli.
The Tata Group's Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces operates three palaces in Rajasthan, including the Taj Lake Palace, aptly named because it's on an island in the middle of Udaipur's Lake Pichola. India's wealthy Poddar family, which has been involved in several heritage projects, took more than a decade to restore the Devi Garh Palace outside of Udaipur.
Weekend WSJ
Many abandoned forts are being reclaimed and renovated into luxury hotels. Although the quality may vary, there's a warm and friendly greeting in many of them.
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Bhainsrorgarh's current host, Rajveer Singh, claims no hard feelings remain between the two families. Digging out his ancestor's 16th-century gold-plated dagger, fingering a blade still razor sharp, Mr. Singh says, "because of this dagger, we have this property."
But if the family still has the fort, being a royal isn't what it used to be. Instead of being waited upon, Mr. Singh spends his days hustling up and down stairs serving dishes that he and his wife help cook. The royal cuisine includes blackened chicken, mutton with gravy, freshly plucked okra and sweet shredded carrots for dessert.
Mr. Singh has also done away with the traditional attire of Rajasthani nobles -- colorful turbans and pointy shoes -- for jeans, leather loafers and a ranch-style canvas jacket. The wardrobe is more suitable to the Jeep drives he takes with guests through desert scrub brush to nearby villages.
The family's rule of the land and people was taken away six decades ago
But if the family still has the fort, being a royal isn't what it used to be. Instead of being waited upon, Mr. Singh spends his days hustling up and down stairs serving dishes that he and his wife help cook. The royal cuisine includes blackened chicken, mutton with gravy, freshly plucked okra and sweet shredded carrots for dessert.
Mr. Singh has also done away with the traditional attire of Rajasthani nobles -- colorful turbans and pointy shoes -- for jeans, leather loafers and a ranch-style canvas jacket. The wardrobe is more suitable to the Jeep drives he takes with guests through desert scrub brush to nearby villages.
The family's rule of the land and people was taken away six decades ago
This isn't an area you're likely to just drop by.
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Most tourists are drawn to Rajasthan for its majestic forts and palaces. The best known are those on a straight and beaten path through the cities of Jaipur and Jodhpur, ending up at India's western edge in the desert city of Jaisalmer. Many travelers also trek south to forts and palaces around Udaipur and its scenic lake.
But just as some of these monuments to Rajasthan's warrior kings are grander than others, so too have their remnants been restored with varying degrees of care. Those looking to live within their walls for a day or two should research not just the rich past, but also check up on the present condition of these so-called heritage hotels. Here are tips on how to locate the best out-of-the-way places.
Find at least one established and trustworthy travel agent. A good travel agent is essential for those looking to stay in more than one fort or palace for tourists. An agent can help plan an itinerary that suits your time frame, budget and stamina for Rajasthan's rough-road travel. Agents will probably be able to coordinate better with the families that operate many of these heritage hotels, since communication can be patchy. Agents may also advise on how kid-friendly a place may be as well as hire safe and reliable drivers or book train tickets. For agent recommendations, try the Rajasthan government's department of tourism -- email assistant director Daleep Singh Rathore at trcjaipur@rajasthantourism.gov.in.
Once you have two or three proposed itineraries, do your own research. Check places on the Internet. Make sure Web site prices match (or are cheaper) than what is being offered through an agent. Try to find recent customer reviews, since prices and quality of places can change quickly. Check the route on a map of Rajasthan to gauge travel time and work out if you want to hit points of interest on the way.
At each destination, try to have a backup option. Some can be dirty and depressing -- you shouldn't waste your time and money sticking it out. Do due diligence, but also reach an understanding with an agent that if a place falls far short of expectations you reserve the right to change -- or move on to the next stop.
But just as some of these monuments to Rajasthan's warrior kings are grander than others, so too have their remnants been restored with varying degrees of care. Those looking to live within their walls for a day or two should research not just the rich past, but also check up on the present condition of these so-called heritage hotels. Here are tips on how to locate the best out-of-the-way places.
Find at least one established and trustworthy travel agent. A good travel agent is essential for those looking to stay in more than one fort or palace for tourists. An agent can help plan an itinerary that suits your time frame, budget and stamina for Rajasthan's rough-road travel. Agents will probably be able to coordinate better with the families that operate many of these heritage hotels, since communication can be patchy. Agents may also advise on how kid-friendly a place may be as well as hire safe and reliable drivers or book train tickets. For agent recommendations, try the Rajasthan government's department of tourism -- email assistant director Daleep Singh Rathore at trcjaipur@rajasthantourism.gov.in.
Once you have two or three proposed itineraries, do your own research. Check places on the Internet. Make sure Web site prices match (or are cheaper) than what is being offered through an agent. Try to find recent customer reviews, since prices and quality of places can change quickly. Check the route on a map of Rajasthan to gauge travel time and work out if you want to hit points of interest on the way.
At each destination, try to have a backup option. Some can be dirty and depressing -- you shouldn't waste your time and money sticking it out. Do due diligence, but also reach an understanding with an agent that if a place falls far short of expectations you reserve the right to change -- or move on to the next stop.
