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I was about to do just that when I stumbled upon the Modern Juice Centre, a little stand that sold fresh fruit juices and chicken shawarma. I ordered a custard-apple milkshake, and with the first pull on the straw, the throbbing stopped and my world expanded.
Around me, I could now see, were gorgeous Victorian houses and quaintly run-down concrete buildings, sidewalks shaded by knobby-trunked tropical trees, shopkeepers and passers-by engaged not in ferocious arguments but in cheerful banter. I was cured of my headache, and it had cost a mere 35 rupees (about 81 cents at 43 rupees to the dollar, the exchange rate when I visited in mid-April).
Just to be safe, I dropped another 30 rupees on a ganga jamuna (orange juice with sweet lime) and surveyed my prospects. I was planning to live the Mumbai high life, a weekend-long party of shopping, eating and luxuriating, and I was hoping to do it on a budget of $500, or 21,500 rupees.
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Normally, the Frugal Traveler's strategy is to save on Friday and splurge on Saturday, but since I'd already cracked open my wallet, I figured I'd switch things around. So, for dinner, we hit Trishna, a well-known seafood restaurant. Aditya, Dave and I powered through spindly king-crab legs with butter and garlic, lobster meat in an emerald sauce of pepper, basil and mint, and Hyderabadi fish tikka. When the bill came, I braced myself; surely I'd be eating plain samosas the rest of the weekend. Instead, it was 1,300 rupees each, the price of two cocktails at the Taj.