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Oiartzun is a tiny, fairly unremarkable, village 15 minutes drive from San Seb. Though I did partake of some rather nice cider in a sideria called Aduriz (nitro cider was in short supply so I'm guessing its not Andoni's side of the family...) Huge barrels of 6 different sharp, tangy ciders. Grab a glass and just help yourself. I spent an enjoyable half hour there and they wouldn't take any money off me. Nice guys.
The main dining room is in a quite rustic, converted farmhouse with stone walls and exposed beams. there's also a beautiful terrace to the side of the hosue, wonderful on a summer's evening. Atmosphere and general service are more relaxed than you would normally find at the 2* level. For instance, there doesn't appear to be a sommelier as such and the staff (well those that could understand me anyway) were very keen on stopping to chat.
To add to the lack of somellier, they have very few wines available by the glass (a major pain for a solo diner) but I got by with a glass of fino, a bottle of Belondrade y Lurton (which worked with most of the courses - and a third of which I sent to the kitchen) and a glass of red I've forgotten.
Front of house were extremely friendly, its very much a family affair with the chef's brother running the show. His English was limited (though better than my Catalan) but once I told him that I had eaten at Toisgros earlier in the week he decided to choose my food and they ended up comping me the sherry, the glass of red, coffee and petit fours. I wasn't going to object...
Foie gras with Pedro Ximenez and truffle
Superb amuse. Very little truffle flavour (a real gripe of mine, summer truffle must be the most worthless ingredient in the world) but the lucious foie and PX combined into a very luxurious, mouth-filling flavour. Great start.
Marinated tuna blini, green apple jelly and juniper ice cream
They couldn't quite maintain it here. Good quality tuna and the apple worked well but the ice cream jarred for me and the coldness stopped me appreciating the tuna.
Crispy Nowegian lobster with orange and pumpkin sauce
Another poor dish, the sauce overpowered whatever flavour the lobster might have had (which had been cooked tempura style).
Curried seafood vichysoisse with a gelatious stock of its own juices
Things got back on track here. Clever techniques with a two layer soup which stayed separate until on your tongue. Very bright, clear flavours.
Roast pork belly, with lentils and soy sauce
The best pork belly I've tasted. Cooked sous vide and finished on the plancha, the fat just evaporated the second it hit my mouth coating my palate in porky fat. Very, very good.
Poached egg, pheasant cream, mushrooms and truffles
Every starred restaurant in Spain seems to need to do a slow cooked egg and this was a well executed version with present and correct custardy yolk. The pheasant cream and ceps were very good on their own but might have been a touch strong for the egg.
Fillet of red mullet, fennell flavoured squid and summer baked beans
Bit of a dip again here, just a bit of a boring dish and, outside of cassoulet, I'm not a great bean lover.
Loin of lamb with green salad and smashed potatoes
Ultra simple, almost gastronomically minimalist dish. Just a few, extremely rare, sices of a teeny tiny lamb. A sweep of Robuchon style puree and a few dressed leaves. Exceptionally tender meat, complimented by a few spoonfuls of the kind of gravy you wished your Mum used to make.
Jellied Marc of herbs, cream cheese and orange ice cream
Cocoa and Amaretto crispy with bittersweet citrus fruits
Desserts didn't maintain the high levels set by the meat courses. Disappointing.
The general view, and one I'd go along with, is that Zuberoa's strength is meat. Most of the fish dishes disappointed and the desserts were a bit perfunctory. Although many of the dishes sound (and look) quite traditional, it is interesting to note that sous vide, pacojets etc. are widely used in the kitchen. I had a good chat with chef Arbelaitz after dinner (through a translator) and he has certainly been very influenced by the modern Spanish movement but, rather than using the modern techniques to to create a new cuisine (a la Adria and Aduriz), he has sought to use them to improve on the existing cuisine. An interesting chat and a nice finish to a very enjoyable night.
