[Slapsie Maxie]

Day four began late with us not rising until after 8.30am. I like to think it is the state of extreme relaxation I have reached, but suspect it is the huge Soberano’s that have acted as the full stop to the end of my day.

Showered, we headed out of the door, this time in the opposite direction East to the much neglected town of Malaga.

Malaga is only just rediscovering itself after years of serving only as a stopping off point for holiday makers en route to other, more picturesque cities. Now, with the opening of the Museo Picasso ( its most famous son ) and the Museo Municipa, and with its push to attract people to visit it in its own right, it is rediscovering a sense of civic pride that is quite tangible in the energy of the people and in the surge in public construction.

We parked right next to the Mercado Artarazanas, the central meat and fish market. A wonderful way to start the visit. Pottering around the stalls heaving with amazing fish, seafood and meats all the while munching on fresh strawberries is right up there with “handjob from Winona and I don’t mean Judd” in my list of pleasures.

1) Chocolateria Delorosa – a great little café near the market, fugged with smoke from locals having a morning bocadillo and some chocolate. We had some very good choccy, though not up to Ramon standards and some freshly squeezed Zumo. For EU5, not bad at all

After the market, we strolled the short walk to The Cathedral of the Conception, Malaga’s centrepiece, built on the site of a Mosque as so many Andalucian churches were after the recapture of that part of Spain from the Moors in the 15th Centruy. They ran out of money when building it so only one tower is completed. The locals call it, affectionately if not politically correctly “The Cripple” It was a fascinating way to pass an hour.

Then to the highlight of the trip for me, The Museo Picasso. Only opened in the last six months or so, the museum itself is one of the most beautiful I have visited. In many ways, it over shadowed some of the works on view. Still, it was a delightful way to get ready for lunch

2) Bodega El Pimpi – recommended by Time Out ( I should have known ) this was horrible. Bottled beer and soggy offerings of Tostada which we declined

3) Rushing from there quickly we happened on a much better store front bar called La Camponada where we drank a couple of Cana and had some Calamaritos ( deep fried baby squid ) and some Bocquerones Fritos ( again- we have become rather addicted to these ) both terrific.

The afternoon saw more sight seeing. First a free exhibit of Spain in the 1950’s at the Museo Municipa which was diverting, particularly for the Pegasos car on display, but also for the collage of Spanish film making on show.

Finally to the Alcazabar, the castle overlooking the port from which defenders were on the look out for potential invaders of which this town had many.

I suspect Malaga will be getting even more visitors in the years to come. It deserves to. A lovely, real, if not pretty city

4) Valparaiso – the evening saw us take in a restaurant which time forgot, but which I love and which has meant a huge amount to me and my family over the years. Valparaiso is an old school Italian restaurant of the sort only the Costa can do. Lovely terrace, pictures of celebrities both A list ( Sean Connery and Liza M ) and Z List ( The Chuckle Brothers anyone?) line the walls and the owner, Signor Raphael presiding over the whole thing with an generous bonhomie that belies his eagle eyed approach to service. Nothing gets past him and he seems to see every table at one time.

My parents have been going here every week they are in Spain ( months of the year ) for well over 20 years. When they were alive my grandmother & grandfather would be taken here as a treat and Raphael would ask if my granny was my Sister and she would lap it up and my grandfather’s tumbler of scotch would never seem to be empty. The owner’s children have been treated by my father and there is a real bond between them

It is in many ways a kitch experience, unfeasibly large pepper pots, dinner dance music, overly gregarious waiers, but, for all that, the food is good ( it does THE best suckling pig on the coast ) and the wine list excellent.

With my mother being so unwell, they have not visited for a long time. My father asked me to have supper there and explain to Raphael why they had not been in such a while because they know he would be worried. So putting aside my need for an echt Spainsh experience, I booked a table for 8pm.

We arrived as planned and settled in the small bar area, adorned with pictures of many well known faces and Jamie Farr and enjoyed some pre-dinner drinks while I had the painful experience of explaining the fact my mum woulnot be in for a while.

The to our table. My friend was so unsure about this place, they thought it reminded them too much of the places their parents took them in the US in the 70’s. but they realised why it may be important to me and played along.

They did warm to the whole experience though when they tasted the food. To begin, I had goose foie terrine with apple sauce which was OK, they had bressaola and carpaccio of beef, both excellent.

To follow, I had the special of suckling pig ( as I say, the best on the coast ) while they had a whole leg of lechel lamb which was equally good. Both came with the usual bizarre and extraneous vegetables

With this we drank a quite lovely Palacio De Arganza ’82, a steal at EU35. It was rich, but with a decent length.

We did retro puddings of choccy mouse and gateau. Both fine

The bill for two was EU130 inc service, but this evening was about so much more than the food.

The last time I came here with my parents some nine months ago, the house band started to play. My mum, who is a sucker for this sort of thing asked me, her son, to dance with her. I was too embarrassed/ignorant/fucking stupid to say yes, so did not. She, as all mothers are, was fine with it. Now, when I have no idea if I will ever get the chance to be with her again in this restaurant, would give everything I own to be able to dance with her. Sorry Mum.

This was not an evening in Spain, this was for my mum. God bless her

S